What we buy
Gold, silver, and platinum in every form — from a single broken chain to a complete estate, plus rare coins and paper currency. Every category below gets the same treatment: tested and weighed in front of you, cash on the spot.
Broken clasps, tangled chains, single earrings, bent rings, kinked bracelets — none of it needs to work or match. Gold is bought by purity and weight, so a snapped 14K chain is worth exactly as much per gram as a perfect one. This is the most common thing people bring us, and the most commonly underestimated.
What to bring: Gather everything in one bag, even pieces you think are worthless. Don't pay to repair anything first — condition doesn't change the offer.
Necklaces, rings, bracelets, earrings, pendants, and anklets in 10K through 24K. Intact designer or antique pieces can be worth more than their melt value — we'll tell you when that's the case rather than pricing them as scrap.
What to bring: Look for karat stamps (10K, 14K, 585, 750) inside ring bands and on clasps, but don't worry if you can't find them — we test every piece regardless.
Gold crowns, bridges, caps, and inlays are typically 10K–18K equivalent. It's fine if the crown still has porcelain or a tooth attached — we account for that in the weight. Many people don't realize dental work has real melt value; a single crown can be worth a surprising amount.
What to bring: Bring dental work as-is. No need to clean or separate anything — we handle that.
American Eagles, Krugerrands, Canadian Maple Leafs, pre-1933 US gold, and gold bars or rounds from any recognized mint. Bullion trades close to spot, and collectible coins can carry numismatic value above their metal content — we evaluate both and pay whichever is higher.
What to bring: Keep coins in their capsules, tubes, or assay cards if you have them. Never clean or polish a coin — cleaning destroys collectible value.
Sterling flatware sets, serving pieces, tea services, trays, candlesticks, and jewelry marked "sterling," "925," or with hallmarks. Note that silver-plated pieces (marked EP, EPNS, or "silver on copper") have no melt value — we'll identify which is which for free, so bring it all and let us sort it.
What to bring: Check for "sterling" or "925" stamps on handles and undersides. Weighted candlesticks contain less silver than they feel like — we'll show you why on the scale.
US dimes, quarters, and half dollars minted 1964 or earlier are 90% silver — collectors call them "junk silver," but each one is worth many times its face value in metal alone. We also buy 40% silver halves (1965–1970), silver dollars (Morgans and Peace), war nickels (1942–1945), modern silver Eagles, and whole collections: coin folders, mint and proof sets, flips, tubes, and graded slabs. Bring it all, sorted or not.
What to bring: Check your change jars and inherited coin folders for anything dated 1964 or earlier. Don't clean the coins — bring them exactly as found.
Minted and hand-poured silver bars and rounds from one ounce up to 100 ounces — Engelhard, Johnson Matthey, SilverTowne, and any other recognized maker. Older poured bars from defunct refiners often carry a collector premium above spot.
What to bring: Bring any paperwork, assay cards, or original packaging. Serial-numbered vintage bars are worth showing us intact.
Platinum jewelry (marked PLAT, PT950, or PT900), loose settings, and platinum bullion. Platinum is denser than gold and frequently mistaken for white gold — if a "white gold" piece feels unusually heavy, it's worth testing. We also evaluate items with platinum components, like watch cases and clasps.
What to bring: Look for PLAT or PT950 stamps. If you're not sure whether a piece is platinum or white gold, bring it anyway — the test is free.
Most class rings are solid 10K or 14K gold and heavier than everyday jewelry, which makes them one of the better-paying single items people bring in. The engraving and stone don't reduce the metal value. If yours has been in a drawer since graduation, it's likely worth more than you'd guess.
What to bring: Just the ring. The stone stays with it — we'll weigh around it and show you the math.
Inherited jewelry boxes, full estate collections, antique brooches, pocket-watch chains, and pieces with no markings at all. We evaluate item by item: pieces with antique or designer value are priced as jewelry, not melt, and we'll tell you which is which. Handling a whole estate at once is something we do regularly and discreetly.
What to bring: Bring the entire box — don't pre-sort. The pieces people set aside as "probably nothing" are often the ones worth the most.
Old US paper money is worth more than its face value far more often than people expect. We buy large-denomination notes ($500, $1,000, and up), large-size notes from before 1928, silver and gold certificates, National Bank Notes, legal tender "red seals," star notes, and currency already graded by PCGS or PMG. Condition and series matter enormously, so we evaluate every note individually rather than quoting a flat rate.
What to bring: Leave notes in whatever sleeve or holder they're in and don't try to flatten, clean, or press them. Folds and stains are priced in; a fresh crease is not.
If what you’re searching for is on this list — or anything like it — we buy it. Call (708) 933-0264 for a free appraisal.